The Daily Meal

24 March 2013

Tonight's Episode: My Last Supper

Work in the Food and Beverage industry long enough and there is one conversation that will inevitably arise. No, I don't mean "whoever said the customer is always right never met a customer", or "how the girl who orders a frozen margarita in the middle of a busy Friday service should be taken outside and shot" (though both are valid). It usually happens at the house of the new stodge, around 3am, after a few shots of Grand Ma. If you were on death row, and had one final meal, what would it be?

Apparently Chef Josh Keeler of Two Boroughs Larder and I attended the same after parties, because he nailed my meal.

Located on the line between Cannonborough and Elliotborough, the aforementioned pair of boroughs, Chef Keeler has been churning out the kind of meals that leave chefs weak in the knees. Focused on bringing the meals chefs want to eat, as opposed to what customers expect, Two Boroughs has won a loyal following in the F&B community, and has begun to see the national acclaim he deserves (see his recent semi-final nomination for a James Beard Award). It took me many months, but I finally convinced The Girl to pop in for dinner, to join in with The Foodess and our newest friend from the Twitterverse, Lady Samsonite.

The ever-changing menu features small and large plates, sides, noodle bowls, and breakfast sandwiches (The best scrapple around!). I highly recommend ordering as a table and passing plates around. That is the only way to avoid having your plate stolen during a bathroom break.

The Foodess picks the Tuna Conserva ($12) with shishito pepper and sofrito. This is a big-boy take on tuna salad, with an amazing balance of spice.

The Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($8) with salumi vinaigrette was a big hit for The Foodess and myself as well, though I think The Girl's Brussels sprouts aversion has reached manic proportions.














No, she would rather go with the Chicpea soup with prosciutto and dukkah. What a deep, rich, soup with rich flavor and the spice of the dukkah brings a balance that explains why The Girl tried to break my hand with her spoon when I went in for a second bite.









Speaking of prosciutto, Lady Samsonite's plate of Prosciutto Rosa ($11) with wild watercress and agrumato turned out to be a plate piled high with paper-thin slices of meat goodness that threatens to overwhelm you with thoughts of the Italian countryside.

The Foodess and The Girl both devoured the Wagyu Coulotte ($26) with sweet onion, Brussels sprouts, cape bean, and bordelaise (More sprouts for me!). The Girl loved how savory and rich the beans were, and how they held on to their firmness. The meat itself, well, perfection. No other word for it.







The Larder denotes more than just the food, but the provisions as well. From the Jack Rudy Cocktail mixers, to craft beers, local farm eggs, MEAT, SC milk, imported pasta.....so many great items for your pantry and for gifts.

Oh, yeah, my meal. Almost forgot.
Roasted Bone Marrow ($10) with turnip, chorizo, and herbs. The buttery, mineral rich taste of this 'butter of the Gods' is counterbalanced beautifully by the crispy chorizo. This is a simple dish, using what has long been discarded, and gives some of the richest flavors imaginable.








Which brings us to the second half of my Final supper, Fried Veal Sweetbreads ($22) w/jowl, beet, carrot, coffee, dukkah. No, sweetbreads are not monkey brains, they are the misunderstood mystery meat whose appeal lies in the creamy, sweet, juiciness and rich subtle flavors.









Yes, my final meal would be two types of offal, Bone Marrow and Sweetbreads. Chef Keeler delivers them with such aplomb, such deftness, that I am now truly scared that my days are numbered. The Girl, who finally overcame her fear of the menu, wishes they would expand beyond the few tables (maybe even move to James Island ::hint::hint::) but says you should get down there and see if you might have a new Last Supper.

The Scores:
Ambiance: 3.5/5
Food: 9/10
Service: 4/5
Value: 4/5
Overall: 19.5 out of 25, Your best chance to see what chefs want to eat Two Boroughs Larder on Urbanspoon

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