Tonight's Episode: Take a Walk on the Imbibed Side

Sometimes in life it is best to slow down, mix up a perfect cocktail, and enjoy the city you live in.

Charleston Culinary & History Walking Tours offers just such a chance with their Mixology tour. A lazy afternoon strolling from one bar to the next, meeting the minds behind Charleston's signature cocktails, and hearing from them about the nuts and bolts of their drinks. 

The Girl and I began our evening at Stars Rooftop, the only bar with a 360° view of the city of Charleston. The $40 a person ticket allowed us to join a small group of drink aficionados, led by our affable guide Guilds Hollowell.

Zack, Star's Master Mixologist whips us up a play on the Mint Julep featuring a heavy dose of peach. The light, bright peach flavors meld with the mint in a delightful summer drink perfect for the deck in low 90s Charleston.

Stop number two would take us to The Cocktail Club, a wonderfully dark and hip bar above sister restaurant The MacIntosh.

At The Cocktail Club, master liquor wrangler and beard enthusiast Jackson Holland treated us to the Cloak & Dagger, a much darker, slightly sweeter, and very complex drink that The Girl had to slide my way due to her rum allergy. A blend of Oronoco rum and Bulleit Rye whiskey with beet and pineapple juices, ginger simple syrup, and lemon topped with a port float. The flavors are bright and pair well with the cayenne and pork fat spiced popcorn. 

Our third and final stop was the bar many of us thought would never ACTUALLY open, Republic Reign . Iron Mixologist Evan Powell took us out to the patio for what has to be the greatest summer cocktail I have ever had. The Girl and I will be making this for our next dinner party without a doubt. The Dutch 75 is a play on the classic spritz cocktail that combines muddled cucumber, Damrak Gin, Elderflower Nectar, champagne and lemon in a bright, clean and pleasing drink that (along with the cucumber garnish) can turn even the muggiest summer day into a pleasant drinking day. The other highlight of Republic Reign was meeting an Emmy Award winner and holding an Emmy!

The tour itself covered the cost of the beverages and a healthy helping of local history and color. The Culinary tours are $55 a person or $100 a couple and include food and non alcoholic beverages. The Girl and I suggest getting a group of friends together (an exclusive tour for 14 is $515) and hit the city in style. Any way you mix it, Charleston Culinary Tours is a welcome addition to the city. 

First Bite: Kitchen 208

Say you are an acclaimed Executive Chef at one of Charleston's most prestigious fine-dining institutions. What do you do with your spare time? Well, if you are Chef Marc Collins of Circa 1886 you help your parent company Charming Inns open a new breakfast and lunch joint, Kitchen 208.

If you are a Charlestonian of a certain age, you will remember Lower King St as having an abundance of breakfast and lunch counters (Woolworth's being my personal...um, I mean older people's favorite). Sadly they have largely disappeared with the skyrocketing rents and Charleston's desperate need for just one more high-end national clothing "boutique" with hundreds of locations. Kitchen 208 reaches back to the historic counters, such as Kress, and applies Chef Marc's distinctive modern whimsy.

For now, at least until the kinks are worked out, breakfast will not be served all day, but fear not - SOON. What the limited menu lacks in items, it more than makes up for in creative interpretations of classic dishes. The two items that really call my name are the Plantation waffle ( $7- Honeysuckle butter, berry compote, and applewood smoked bacon) and the Cobblestone ($8 egg, Brown's Court Bakery benne seed bun, tomato, arugula, gruyere cheese, candied bacon, lemon mayo fruit). I recommend grabbing a cinnamon roll as a side.

The lunch side has a few more exciting items. The Bat Outta Hell ($10) is a meatloaf sandwich with tomato marmalade, gruyere, and collards. There is a Triple Decker ($6) with house ground peanut butter and jam, and The Pickleback ($9) gives you a pork loin with pickled green tomatoes and a bourbon fig jam.

I had the Belle-gem ($9). This sandwich is a buttermilk fried chicken breast on a bacon waffle (bacon in the waffle) with lettuce, tomato, Swiss, and a whole grain mustard aioli. The waffle is delightfully light yet firm, with just a touch of pleasant saltiness from the bacon. The chicken is perfectly cooked, though for my personal tastes I would have preferred a sweeter condiment. The house pickled okra was a nice touch, and overall a very nice plate of food.

I'll be interested to return with The Girl after they have been open a little longer, found their stride, and see what tasty treats Chef Marc has in store. As for now, I have to say it is worth a drop in, if only to people watch the movers-and-shakers of Charleston roll up their sleeves and dig in.

Recipe: Ground Turkey Lettuce Wrap Mock Taco

Ground Turkey. Just saying those words bore me to death. What an awful product. Little fat, little flavor, dries out fast. So when I found myself with a pound of it in my fridge because I'm a man and I don't need to read labels, I had to scramble around and figure a way to make it tasty. Result, this lettuce wrap Mock Taco:

Ingredients:

For the Taco Seasoning-
1 tablespoon chili powder
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon onion powder
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1/4 teaspoon dried oregano
1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika
1 1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon sea salt
1 teaspoon black pepper

Combine all ingredients in order listed, stir to combine, set aside

For the Mango Salsa
1 ripe mango, peeled pitted and diced
1/2 medium red onion, chopped fine
1 jalapeño minced (include seeds and ribs for hotter flavor)
1 small cucumber peeled and diced
3 tablespoons diced fresh cilantro
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients in a non-ractive bowl, cover, place in fridge till chilled


For the Tacos
1 Head Boston Bibb lettuce
1 pound ground turkey
2 tablespoons Bragg's Liquid Amino Soy Replacement (Or low sodium soy sauce)
2/3 cup water

Mix turkey and liquid amino, cover and chill over night

Remove turkey from fridge 30 minutes before cooking to allow meat to reach room temperature. Brown in a large non-stick skillet. Drain. Add taco seasoning and water, stir, and cook till all water is absorbed. Serve with lettuce shells and mango salsa.

Tonight's Episode: My Last Supper

Work in the Food and Beverage industry long enough and there is one conversation that will inevitably arise. No, I don't mean "whoever said the customer is always right never met a customer", or "how the girl who orders a frozen margarita in the middle of a busy Friday service should be taken outside and shot" (though both are valid). It usually happens at the house of the new stodge, around 3am, after a few shots of Grand Ma. If you were on death row, and had one final meal, what would it be?

Apparently Chef Josh Keeler of Two Boroughs Larder and I attended the same after parties, because he nailed my meal.

Located on the line between Cannonborough and Elliotborough, the aforementioned pair of boroughs, Chef Keeler has been churning out the kind of meals that leave chefs weak in the knees. Focused on bringing the meals chefs want to eat, as opposed to what customers expect, Two Boroughs has won a loyal following in the F&B community, and has begun to see the national acclaim he deserves (see his recent semi-final nomination for a James Beard Award). It took me many months, but I finally convinced The Girl to pop in for dinner, to join in with The Foodess and our newest friend from the Twitterverse, Lady Samsonite.

The ever-changing menu features small and large plates, sides, noodle bowls, and breakfast sandwiches (The best scrapple around!). I highly recommend ordering as a table and passing plates around. That is the only way to avoid having your plate stolen during a bathroom break.

The Foodess picks the Tuna Conserva ($12) with shishito pepper and sofrito. This is a big-boy take on tuna salad, with an amazing balance of spice.

The Roasted Brussels Sprouts ($8) with salumi vinaigrette was a big hit for The Foodess and myself as well, though I think The Girl's Brussels sprouts aversion has reached manic proportions.

No, she would rather go with the Chicpea soup with prosciutto and dukkah. What a deep, rich, soup with rich flavor and the spice of the dukkah brings a balance that explains why The Girl tried to break my hand with her spoon when I went in for a second bite.









Speaking of prosciutto, Lady Samsonite's plate of Prosciutto Rosa ($11) with wild watercress and agrumato turned out to be a plate piled high with paper-thin slices of meat goodness that threatens to overwhelm you with thoughts of the Italian countryside.

The Foodess and The Girl both devoured the Wagyu Coulotte ($26) with sweet onion, Brussels sprouts, cape bean, and bordelaise (More sprouts for me!). The Girl loved how savory and rich the beans were, and how they held on to their firmness. The meat itself, well, perfection. No other word for it.







The Larder denotes more than just the food, but the provisions as well. From the Jack Rudy Cocktail mixers, to craft beers, local farm eggs, MEAT, SC milk, imported pasta.....so many great items for your pantry and for gifts.

Oh, yeah, my meal. Almost forgot.

Roasted Bone Marrow ($10) with turnip, chorizo, and herbs. The buttery, mineral rich taste of this 'butter of the Gods' is counterbalanced beautifully by the crispy chorizo. This is a simple dish, using what has long been discarded, and gives some of the richest flavors imaginable.

Which brings us to the second half of my Final supper, Fried Veal Sweetbreads ($22) w/jowl, beet, carrot, coffee, dukkah. No, sweetbreads are not monkey brains, they are the misunderstood mystery meat whose appeal lies in the creamy, sweet, juiciness and rich subtle flavors.









Yes, my final meal would be two types of offal, Bone Marrow and Sweetbreads. Chef Keeler delivers them with such aplomb, such deftness, that I am now truly scared that my days are numbered. The Girl, who finally overcame her fear of the menu, wishes they would expand beyond the few tables (maybe even move to James Island ::hint::hint::) but says you should get down there and see if you might have a new Last Supper.

The Scores:
Ambiance: 3.5/5
Food: 9/10
Service: 4/5
Value: 4/5
Overall: 19.5 out of 25, Your best chance to see what chefs want to eat

Tonight's Episode: Charleston & Chicago, Paired Perfection

The highlight of the Charleston Wine + Food Festival for me is always the Perfectly Paired dinners. This event brings together local Charleston chefs with accomplished culinary masters from around the nation, and bring in wineries to provide from their cellars the liquid accompaniment to enhance every dish.

As with last year, we chose to do our dinner with the über-talented Chef Nate Whiting of the excellent and under-rated modernist gem Tristan. Joining him this year is Andrew Zimmerman (not the bald guy who eats testicles in mud huts). This is the Iron Chef American champ and genius behind Chicago's Sepia, a product-driven fusion of tradition and modernism. Providing libations is Washington's Hedges Family Estate.

Crab is King

Joining The Girl and I are Vino Suave, Argentinian lord of the Vine, and his lovely wife, Iron City Tipsy, whose severe shellfish allergy has led to a retooling of her menu to avoid a repeat of the Dancing With Lobster incident of '09. 

Chef's Compliment: Chef Andrew Zimmerman

      Hamachi cured with the flavors of an aviation cocktail ~ fennel, juniper, zest, violet, cherry

This is a clean and subtle dish, invoking the taste of a dry martini. Simple preparation, but delightful.

First Course: Chef Nate Whiting

     King Crab, sea urchin pana cotta, avocado, vanilla, bronte pistachio, ruby grapefruit

     2010 CMS Sauvignon Blanc

 To the right, top, we see our dish. This is a combination of the most delightfully balanced spring roll you have ever tasted, paired with a perfectly creamy and savory-sweet pana cotta. The playfulness of this dish is so typical of Chef Nate's style.  Below is IC Tipsy's veggie take on the same dish. Balance seems to be the goal of all of Chef Nate's dishes.

Second Course: Chef Andrew Zimmerman

   Glazed Veal Sweetbreads, blood sausage, celery root, ciabatta, hazelnuts

   2011 HIP Unoaked Chardonnay

The Sweetbread, buttery and decadent, was of great appeal to both Vino Suave and myself. For him, this was one of the best sweetbreads he has had outside of his native land. For me, the simple treatment grounds what could have been a flawed dish. The blood sausage crumble added little flavor, but that was hardly important with this beautifully savory dish. The sweet apricot flavors of the unoaked wine are a perfect counterpoint.                                                                                                                          

Third Course: Chef Nate Whiting

   Acquerllo Risotto prepared from scratch, eel kabayaki, local mushrooms, ponzu, crispy duck tongue

   2010 Hedges Red Mountain

                                                                         Though far from the most visually appealing dish, this risotto is beautiful and rich, perfectly executed, and with an umptousness that makes it hard to go back to those "fauxsottos" you usually get at a restaurant. The crispy duck tongue gives a good textural counterpoint, but brought little to the table in the way of flavor. 

Fourth Course: Chef Andrew Zimmerman

   Wagyu Bavette w/maitake mushrooms, cippollini, sunchoke custard, coffee soil, béarnaise

   2009 Goedhart Syrah

Deep, rich, flavorful. Gorgeous plating. How do you argue with an amazing cut of meat like this?

Fifth Course: Pastry Chef Amanee Neirouz

  Quadrello di Bufala, buffalo butter biscuit, San Marzano and rosemary condiment

  2010 DLD Syrah

Imagine the greatest croque monsieur and the greatest Parisian cafe. Pales in comparison to the cheese offering from Pastery Chef Amanee! 

Sixth Course: Pastry Chef Amanee Neirouz

  Chocolate Milk; caramelized Valrhona Ivoire pudding, malted milk crumbs, Dragon's Milk stout        

  shake, chocolate brioche

  2006 Hedges Fortified

Last year's dinner at Tristan ended with a tart pastry, much to The Girl's dismay. This year, a regal and amazing tribute to chocolate with one of the most thoughtful desserts we have ever enjoyed. Chef Amanee wrapped up this meal with a perfectly executed dish. 

The four of us reflected on the meal with cigars and single malt at the Rooftop Pavilion Bar, and the consensus was Chef Nate wowed us, Chef Amanee's two courses were a revelation, and Sepia would be top of the list when we next make it to Chicago. Do yourself a favor, and next year jump in the pool and try one of the Perfectly Paired Dinners!