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21 November 2013

Event: High Wire Distillery debuts Hat Trick Gin


Charleston is a city that loves to drink. We aren't New Orleans drunk, but the liquor does flow fast, and our mixologists (which apparently does not translate to bartender with an ironic mustache) combine regional ingredients in unique ways to form inspired cocktails. Recently they have been able to up the "local" ante by using liquors birthed right here in the Holy City.

High Wire Distilling Co, who brought the production of craft liquors to Downtown Charleston back in September, launched their new Hat Trick Botanical Gin last night. To introduce their newest offering they chose one of Charleston's hottest new bars, The Warehouse.


Hat Trick does something amazing; it makes you love juniper.  This isn't a gin that tastes like one of those Christmas Tree air fresheners, nor is it the vodka-like tasteless gin of some major label offerings. Hat Trick takes the light rosemary and citrus essence of high quality juniper and accentuates it without overplaying the pine flavor. The result is a gin best served over the rocks with a twist. A proper martini will also benefit from the lightly herbal and subtle flavors.


The Blood Orange Tonic, the night's signature gin cocktail, was tasty but slightly overwhelmed the beautiful gin. The second cocktail of the night, the Light & Stormy (featuring High Wire's Light Rum) was much more of a success, highlighting the rum's unusual and extremely satisfying blue agave notes. Think of an ultra-high end tequila in flavor, but not abandoning the core flavor that makes a light rum so dang tasty. This is a rum that will cure you of the Bacardi blues.


While I was imbibing copious amounts of premium gin, I decided to sample a board of the rotating house-made charcuterie ($14). Tonight's offerings were (from left to right) smoked brisket, apple and fennel sausage, crispy pork rillete, and Canadian ham. While the rillete was the clear and crispy winner, all the offerings were tasty and just salty enough to satisfy.


The Hat Trick Gin (along with the fantastic Rum and a Vodka I have yet to try) are all for sale at the distillery, coming soon to liquor stores, and by the glass at the Warehouse.


And after a glass or two try your hand at the bloodsport known as foosball.

15 October 2013

Recipe: Croque Madame Muffin


Is there any dish in French cuisine more wonderfully child-like in its whimsy as the Croque Madame? The delightful grilled ham and cheese sandwich, topped with a fried egg, is one of my favorite brunch dishes. This updated version, in muffin form, is tasty on its own or paired with a dressed arugula salad.

Ingredients:

4 Slices white bread, crust cut off
4 eggs yolks (reserve the whites for light omelets tomorrow)
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 oz ham cubed

For the Mornay Sauce:

3 Tablespoons butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion
3 tablespoons flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon white pepper
1 cup chicken broth
1/2 cup light cream
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup shredded swiss cheese
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan reserved for garnish

To Make the Mornay Sauce:

Melt the butter over medium heat, add onions and sweet till translucent. Add flour, stirring until it forms a paste. Add Salt and pepper. Gradually add both broth and cream over low heat, stirring constantly until combined and thickened. Cook for 5 minutes while stirring to prevent the cream from burning. Stir in cheese until melted, remove from heat.

To Assemble:
Preheat oven to 350º, Then flatten the slices of bread, brushing both sides with melted butter. Press the bread into a muffin tin, the bread should overhang the top of the tin. Add 1/4 oz of ham to each slice of bread, then add egg yolk. Cover with Mornay sauce, about two tablespoons, and sprinkle with reserved grated Parmesan. Bake for 13 minutes for a loose yolk, 20 minutes for a firm yolk. Serve immediately.

10 October 2013

Tonight's Episode: Closing a Door



Ask most Charleston natives over the age of, oh I don't know 30 maybe, their thoughts on Big John's Tavern and you are likely to hear "Oh that sketchy place that lets teens drink?" Now ask the same question of your random 20something and you are likely to hear "You mean the bar at The Green Door?" That change is significant. The day food truck vet Cory Burke opened his funky little slice of culinary heaven, the entire vibe changed for Big John's. Suddenly, this place that seemed better suited to a Law & Order: SVU episode became a destination. People talked about it again. It mattered. But not for long.

The Post & Courier's Hanna Raskin set the Charleston food scene ablaze last night when she broke the news that The Green Door was getting the boot. In the follow-up article we meet the building's owner, Ryan Condon. See Ryan bought Big John's from it's struggling owner John Cannady to keep the spirit of the bar the same. What made Big John's so special? According to Mr. Condon it was the kind of place parents felt safe letting their teens drink. Let that sink in for a moment. He took the bar back from his nephews, who had been running it, because "That's just not what the business was intended to be." I'm assuming he means the menu at The Green Door, not the enforcing of the legal drinking age, but that seems open to interpretation. 

Mr. Condon isn't new to the Charleston food scene. He co-owns the Charleston Crab Shack chain, most famous for providing mediocre fried seafood and crab legs identical to any other such chain across the country. It is that mediocrity that Mr. Condon feels is best for his business. He wants to return it to its glory. From Hanna Raskin's article we hear this:

“I want to return Big John’s to what Big John’s was when I started going there,” says Condon, who started hanging out at Big John’s as a high schooler. “If Big John would ever have seen The Green Door, he would have rolled over in his grave. I don’t even know what the hell grilled kimchee is; I just want to restore Big John’s the way it was.”


What, other than having high schooler's like Mr. Condon getting drunk, made Big John's so special? Ham sandwiches and football on TV. Yes, Mr. Condon hopes Big John's can fill that void in Charleston of places to get a ham sandwich and watch TV. 

Listen, I do not begrudge a businessman doing what he thinks is best for his business, but if THIS is the move he wants, then the failure he will endure will be of his own making. I also don't think Chef Cory is without blame. I hope he has learned a valuable lesson about getting it in writing.  I hope Chef Cory keeps his funky eclectic food in Charleston. We need someone to help tip the scales of generic mediocrity that the Ryan Condon's of the world want to spread. 

PS- The Girl thinks Ryan Condon deserves to stub his toe AND get a paper cut in the same day.

14 September 2013

Recipe: Bourbon Sorghum Glazed Ribs

Maple syrup is EXPENSIVE. No way around it. If you want to get a good glaze on your ribs you're going to have to shell out some big bucks to do it. Unless you use that sweet Southern staple sorghum. At 1/2 to 1/3 the price, this iron and vitamin dense molasses replacement is perfect for my Bourbon ribs.
(If you can't track down Sorghum, use a 1:1 ratio for molasses)



What You will Need:

1 Slab of Pork Ribs
1 1/4 Cup Sorghum Syrup
1 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar 
1/2 Cup Packed Brown Sugar
1/3 Cup Bourbon (Like with wine only cook with what you would drink)
1/4 Cup of Sea Salt
2 Tsp White Pepper
1 Tsp Chili Powder
1 1/2 Tsp Garlic Salt
1 Tsp Paprika
1/2 Tsp Red Pepper Flakes
1/2 Tsp Cumin


I'm Serious when I say only cook with what you drink, I go with Bulleit

Step 1:

Clean your Ribs! The membrane on the back of your ribs has to go. Just use a paring knife to cut it away to ensure maximum flavor penetration.

Step 2:

In a large bowl mix together all the dry ingredients. This is your rub. Commence rubbing. Every last inch of your ribs needs a liberal rubbing. This is the base for your flavor, and without it you will have sad ribs. Place in the fridge for at least 2 hours.

Step 3:

Pull your ribs out so they can reach room temperature, and preheat the oven to 275. Yes I said oven. These ribs are NOT going to touch the grill.

Step 4: 

TIGHTLY wrap the ribs with heavy duty aluminum foil, and place in the oven for 2 hours.

Step 5:

At the half-way point combine the cider, Bourbon, and sorghum in a saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil while stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium, stirring on occasion until mixture has reduced by half into a beautiful glaze. Remove from heat and allow to cool.

Step 6: 

Remove the ribs from the oven. Place a lined baking sheet on the bottom rack to catch any drippings. Unwrap ribs, glaze on both sides,  place on top rack, and drop the temperature to 250. Cook for 2 1/2 to 3 hours, glazing every 25 minutes. 

Step 7: 

Once the meat starts to separate from the bone, turn the broiler to high. 3-5 minutes under the broiler will crisp up the ribs giving them that perfect grill taste.

Step 8: 

Carve, hand out napkins, and serve with your favorite potato salad!




08 September 2013

Tonight's Episode: Anything you can do I can do better!

America loves a classic. America loves a modern take on a classic. The Southern General  uses this conciet as the basis of their John's Island sandwich cafe. And boy does it pay dividends.



Take the humble Cheese Steak. Why not make it with Pot Roast with braised sirloin and bourbon mushroom gravy? Sounds like a great idea to me. But what if you (like The Girl) just want a traditional cheese steak? Well......serve that, too! That is what makes The Southern General such a uniquely fun joint. They take the Harvey Dent approach to a menu; give them both faces. A classic shaved sirloin with peppers and onions will set you back $8.5, and so will the modern take.


How about a burger? What is more classic than that? For $8 you can do the 1/2 pound Angus burger.....or you can be like me and spend $9 for the Brat Burger. House made bratwurst patty with a spicy beet cheese mustard and broccoli slaw. The slight bite of heat is balanced by the cool slaw. One of the more fun takes on a burger that I've ever seen.


Even the classics can get a slight update. With the Pulled Pork ($7.5), a sweet tea BBQ sauce lends that cool bite you expect from a black tea. Or you can go the new school route with the Super Butt ($8.5) with smoked sweet onion mustard relish, spicy sweet potato cream cheese, and house potato chips.


The house potato chips also go well with the smoked sweet onion dip ($7). Super thin herbed chips bring a nice saltiness to this VERY onion forward dip. And I mean that as a compliment, though $7 seems a touch high for this particular dish.


Another tasty plate to share is the Poutine ($9). This Canadian classic has herbed fries and gravy, with fried cheese curds. Would be nice if the curds were a little smaller, but tasty all the same.


And thanks to our waitress Holly I now know to check the menu board. Otherwise I would have missed the adult Sloppy Joe ($8) with spicy ground pork, red Creole sauce, and pimento cheese. I.....LOVE....this sandwich. I mean in a creepy stalker kind of way. The perfect balance of childhood memories and a modern palate.

The Girl and I stopped in the second time on our way out to Edisto, and I think it is best to point out that the location MAY be hard to find. It is in the back of a shopping center with another restaurant and an Irish Pub. If you find yourself on John's Island, or just want to try a little something different, completely worth a stop. The fact that they serve full menu til 1am Friday and Saturday doesn't hurt either.

The Scores:

Ambiance: 3.5/5
Service: 4/5
Food: 8.5/10
Value: 5/5

Overall: 21 out of 25 Fun funky little sandwich joint with a split personality.

Martin General Store on Urbanspoon

31 August 2013

Tonight's Episode: Interview with Cook It Raw's Alessandro Porcelli

Rene Rdzepi (Noma), Daniel Patterson (Coi) and David Chang (Momofuku)


Cook It Raw is perhaps the most anticipated culinary adventure around. For the last few years, CIR has brought together the greatest culinary minds working in the world's finest kitchens for a collaboration with local farmers, hunters, foragers, and craftsmen for one-off dinners unlike anything you have ever or will ever see. 

Cook It Raw came to public awareness when Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations followed the event (and Charleston Chef Sean Brock) to Japan. Now, for the first time, the public will have a chance to join in the fun when Cook It Raw BBQ Perspectives comes to Charleston ($100, Oct 26 2013), bringing in 40 chefs from around the world (everyone from Albert Adria of Tickets in Barcelona to Phil Wood of Rockpool in Sydney) to show their own spin on Lowcountry BBQ and all things local.  The focus on the local bounty is a thematic necessity of the event. 

Massimo Bottura (Osteria Francescana), Petter Nilsson (La Gazzetta), Magnus Nilsson (Fläviken), Fredrick Anderson (Mistral)

I was lucky enough to score an interview with Cook It Raw Director and Founder Alessandro Porcelli. This Italian ex-pat has been a driving force in turning Denmark into one of the world's culinary destinations. His first book, a compendium of Cook it Raw events, is available now.



Foodmancing The Girl: If you could, just explain why the general public should pay attention to Cook it Raw?



Alessandro: Cook It Raw is a blank canvas that at the end of each gathering it turns into a painting, drawn by heterogeneous minds and expert hands dedicated to highlight unique foodways through collaboration, creativity, tradition and sustainability. We encourage chefs, producers, artisans, farmers and academics to think as a team and to learn from each other. We work with the visiting country and its people to portray, together with a number of chefs and us from the organisation, a cultural food snapshot of a specific area creating an arena or exchange of ideas while allowing the flow of connectivity to spark new friendships and mindful experiences. Basically our main aim is to support changes in the way we're looking at food at all levels, from avant-garde cuisine to everyday cooking.

FTG: What is it about getting the chefs out of the restaurant that seems to get them so jazzed to participate?



Alessandro: Chefs, as many other creative professionals, are subject to routines. Routines are the antithesis of creativity. Cook it raw breaks this chain allowing chefs to experience people and culture and content which take 1 year to put together.


FTG: Up til now, Cook it Raw has been an invitation-only event. Why open it to the public?


Alessandro: Cook it Raw still is and will remain a gathering for a limited number of participants. It's a learning and engaging experience that is organized and documented better and better as we learn from it and grow with it. We want to share this experience through communicating it in as many ways and means as possible. The public event we're having this year is to share the dining aspect with a larger number of consumers.







FTG: What is it about BBQ in general, and Charleston in particular, that led to the decision to have this event here? Not that I am complaining, but going from Ishikawa and Poland to South Carolina seems rather odd.



Alessandro: Cook it Raw is about understanding and innovation, and the BBQ and Lowcountry cuisine that come out of Charleston provide a unique opportunity to do just that. This cuisine is a confluence of cultures, and Charleston is a place where modern chefs and producers are taking a strong look at the heritage and the complex history of the place to innovate moving forward. Charleston has just as much to offer to the international culinary conversation as Copenhagen or Collio, and we are here to learn and be inspired.




FTG: This is a question that we have debated after a few drinks: if you were one of two survivors of a plane crash in the Andes, what chef would you want along for the ride?



Alessandro: Without a doubt Eric Werner (Heartwood), not only he'll build us a spectacular wooden oven but he'll hunt down anything that moves and find any edible stuff men and animals can think, while having a great conversation!!!




(Photos by Eric Refner and Eric Olsson)

27 August 2013

Tonight's Episode: Chase After A Cure



Photo curtsey of www.Woodlandsmansion.com 




One of the best parts about writing this blog has been the opportunity to attend and support events for worthy causes. Last night The Girl and I had one such opportunity and feel amazingly blessed to have had the chance. "Memories at the Mansion" was a spectacular event supporting Chase After A Cure, a local non-profit with a major goal. Don't you dare skip down to the (Fabulous) dinner from Chef Nate Whiting and the crew of Tristan. Please take your time and read about Chase After A Cure, their mission, and how you can help. Once that is done you can go enjoy food envy.




Chase After A Cure's Mission:

Chase After a Cure (CAAC) was started in 2009 by Summerville, S.C., resident Whitney Ringler and her family after her son, Chase, was given a 30 percent chance of survival after being diagnosed with Stage 4 neuroblastoma. Chase survived this aggressive form of cancer and now his family works tirelessly on behalf of childhood cancer research.
CAAC supports families of childhood cancer patients, raises awareness about childhood cancer, specifically neuroblastoma, and funds childhood cancer research at the Medical University of South Carolina Children’s Hospital.
Cancer is the No. 1 cause of disease-related death among children. About 13,500 children between birth and age 19 are diagnosed with cancer each year. Just at the Medical University of South Carolina, about 70 children are diagnosed annually.
Compared to adult cancer, childhood cancers are rare. Even though childhood cancer incidence rates continue to increase slightly each year, they still represent less than 1 percent of all new cancer diagnoses. That means funding for childhood cancer research is limited. In particular, neuroblastoma which has one of the lowest survival rates receives very little attention because the population base with this form of cancer isn’t profitable enough for pharmaceutical companies to develop new treatments.
While childhood cancer may impact a smaller population, it impacts the young lives of those diagnosed at 100 percent.

Chase Ringler's Story:


On October 2, 2007, Chase Ringler was diagnosed with Stage 4 Neuroblastoma. He was always healthy rarely experiencing even a cold. One day he woke up with a stiff neck and the next day we discovered he had Stage 4 cancer. Chase’s diagnosis began with the discovery of a tumor on his left adrenal gland. It was approximately half the size of a golf ball. Other tests concluded that the cancer had already spread to his bone marrow and skull. On October 4, 2007 he underwent surgery to remove the tumor. It was a success, but not without complication. During surgery it was discovered the tumor was entangled in the adjacent lymph nodes as a result, his renal artery was cut which resulted in loss of his kidney. His treatment consisted of 8 rounds of high dose chemotherapy, bone marrow transplant, 14 rounds of radiation, six months of Accutane and monoclonal antibody therapy. His treatment is very aggressive since risk of relapse is so high and there is no cure for relapse. Chase has shown tremendous strength and courage through all of this. He continues to warm the hearts of everyone with his smile and laughter.

How You Can Help:

Chase After A Cure hosts several fundraisers through out the year, including a Gala dinner, Golf Tournament, and this year the "Memories at the Mansion" Dinner. But you don't have to attend one of these to help. In addition to simply donating money (I promise they won't be offended if you just want to send them a check), they are always looking for volunteers, in-kind donations of goods and services, and even hosts for new events. If your company, organization, sorority or fraternity, family, book club, motorcycle gang, drinking buddies, or group of casual acquaintances have an idea for a great event (big or small) and would like to raise money for a local cause, please visit Chase After A Cure's website. Get in touch, Get involved, Make a Difference


And With No Further Ado:


The "Memories At The Mansion" event can best be described as a chance to get the band back together. The Woodlands Mansion was long the culinary crown jewel of the South. Only a handful of properties in the United States can boast Mobil 5-Star designation for both the hotel and the restaurant, a designation this luxurious Greek Revival space held for many years.

The Woodlands Spa & Resort closed last year, and new owner Tom Limehouse relaunched the mansion as a premier event space, available for full rental. One of the casualties of this conversion was the acclaimed Dining Room, with the kitchen which had been helmed by several amazing chefs going quiet.

The new focus of The Woodlands does lend itself to a unique opportunity, one that Chase After A Cure wisely jumped on. With Tom Limehouse's enthusiastic support they organized a one-off dinner bringing back The Woodland's long-time Sommelier (and owner of superb Summerville wine shop Accent on Wine) Stephane Peltier and former Executive Chef (and genius behind the massively underrated Tristan) Nate Whiting.

This was also personally a special evening for me. The Woodland's is where I cut my teeth in the fine dining world. Many years ago, working at this stunning estate opened a new world to me. In many ways, this is a homecoming for me.

The event began with a wine tasting, with stations featuring the best of France, the US, and Italy. With nearly 30 wines (at a one-night-only reduced price), the hour long tasting provided a chance to mingle with the 60 donors who joined in for the evening (and snapped up the 18 stunning rooms for the night).
To me, the standout wine from the tasting was the Champagne Charpentier Brut Rose.

                                            
The evening opened with a Chef's Compliment of reinterperted Woodland's Peach Tea. If you never had the chance to stay at The Woodlands, at the Concierge station there was always a beautiful peach tea. This encapsulated bubble of tea is a one-bite wonder of whimsy.


Wine pairing: Chanpagne, Veuve Clicqout, 'Yellow Label' France

 First course, 'A Welcome by Sea,' featured sea urchin panna cotta with Osetra caviar, enlightened Chopin Créme fraiche, crystallized onions, and puffed jasmine rice. The Girl notes the perfect texture of the panna cotta, while I fixate on the crystallized onion. Seriously, I want a jar of these to sprinkle all over soups.

Sauvignon Blanc, Fritz, 'Estate Grown,' Dry Creek Valley, Sonoma County California 2012
(And now one of my favorite white wines)

 2nd course was a vanilla poached New England lobster with scallop crudo, carrots cooked in embers, Bronte pistachios, and a grapefruit emulsion. A beautiful dish that could have used just a touch more acid, but the play of the pistachios with the seafood is now one of my favorite flavor combos.

Sangiovese, Poggio Rubino, Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy 2010

  3rd Course, And The Girl's favorite, was a prepared-from-scratch Acquerello Risotto with saffron, Chinese five spice, and gilded Parmigiano Reggiano. Decadent is the only way to describe this dish. If you follow me on Twitter (@Foodmancing) then by now you should know that I have a deep-seeded hatred of what passes for risotto in most restaurants. This, however, is the real-deal and should make Nonna bless the the Saints.

Cabernet Sauvignon, Cakebread, Napa Valley, California 2009


4th Course, Dry aged Canadian duck breast with Hudson Valley Foie Gras, King trumpet mushrooms, cracklins, and misoyaki glaze. This is duck done right. Milder on the gamey flavor, perfectly matched with the cold foie gras.



Brachetto, Monte Maria 'Casanova' Piedmont, Italy 2011

The sweet finish to the evening was one of the rare occasions where I fairly well inhale the dish while The Girl didn't find it as appealing. This may be one of my new favorite desserts. Smoked chocolate parfait, chocolate pudding skin, chocolate crumble, and caramelized white chocolate. This dish has a beautiful smoke flavor to balance the sweetness. If you aren't a fan of ultra-sweet desserts, this is the dish for you.

At the end of the evening, after the plates were cleared and the glasses empty, it is easy to forget WHY we were all here this evening. Yes this dinner was stellar (and if Chef Nate doesn't get James Beard recognition soon I'll be surprised), but the money raised is of far more importance. Please, if you can find it in your heart, get in touch with Chase After A Cure and find out how you can make a difference in a child's life.





22 August 2013

Tonight's Episode: Down to the ol Five & Dime

Top Chef Master Hugh Acheson sprang to fame in 2000 when he opened 5 & 10 in Athens, Georgia. Named for the old Five & Dime that was housed in the same space, his French inspired Southern cuisine launched him to the realm of celebrity chef. On TV his affable humor, obvious intelligence, and yes the proud unibrow has made him a food TV fan favorite. The Girl and I first met him In March of 2012 when he wowed us in a paired dinner for Charleston Wine and Food Festival.

It only took us 13 years, but we finally made the drive down to Athens to try 5 & 10, in its brand new digs in an old antiques shop, and the place is IMPRESSIVE. Set among some of the more stately Fraternity houses I've ever seen (The University of Georgia apparently thought Chef Hugh's cooking is so good it moved in next door), 5 & 10 features a massive porch, a beautiful bar, several small dinning rooms, and it's own coffee bar.

And they have palms in the bathtub 

The menu is very representative of Chef Hugh's New Southern cuisine (You can even pick up a signed copy of his cookbook A New Turn in the South  after dinner).  From snacks (Boiled peanut hummus $5) to entrees (Low Country Frogmore Stew $25), the simple one-page menu is manageable and accessible.

The Girl immediately goes for the Pimiento cheese with candied bacon ($6) on the snack menu. This is very close to the best she has ever had (I admit I'm not a pimiento cheese guy, and to me it just tastes fine). Perfect texture and a good but not overwhelming spiciness are what she credits for her high marks. (For her #1 Pimiento cheese check out Mrs. Betty's at Anson)


I am a sucker for grilled octopus (see what I did there? Did ya?). This version comes with sweet charred vidalia onion, roasted shishitos (very underrated pepper), Carolina gold rice, hoop house tomatoes, and a sherry vinaigrette ($15). The octopus was beautifully grilled and had an almost sausage like taste and texture, well worth the price, but frankly the dish didn't need it. That rice may have been one of the single best things I've eaten all year. I'm not joking. I would eat a four course meal of this rice with different garnishes. Words fail me.


Moving on to dinner, The Girl orders a perfectly seared Painted Hills strip steak ($32) with farro panisse, foraged mushrooms, bok chou, and heirloom tomatoes. The farro, like the rice on my appetizer, really starred in the dish. The steak, spot on and tasty, could have used a touch more meat on the plate to justify the price.


My entree did not photograph well. I apologize. I also apologize for not having it in Smell-O-Vision. The Sorghum glazed pork ribs ($29) with spiced pecans, confit potatoes, mustard greens, and a turnip & radish slaw perfumes the entire room when it enters. Slightly sweet, fragrant, porky. Each fork full lives up to the olfactory promise. Fork tender? Nah, these are soup spoon tender. I have a jar of sorghum in the pantry that now has a new use.


The Tres Leches cake with cherry sorbet and mixed fruit walks the fine line between sweet and too sweet, but thankfully pulls it off with aplomb. The cake's texture was beautiful and the tart of the sorbet brought a beautiful balance to the dish.

5 & 10 certainly delivers on the promise of an amazing meal. With stellar service, a beautiful space, and an attention to detail, this Athens landmark looks primed to spend another decade at the crest of the Southern food movement.

The Scores:

Ambiance: 5/5
Service: 4.5/5
Food: 9/10
Value: 3/5

Overall: 21.5 out of 25 Fine dining Southern done right


Five & Ten on Urbanspoon

12 August 2013

Tonight's Episode: Seeing Stars

A Ft Sumter Julep, a play on the classic mint julep using peach, sipped on while enjoying panoramic views of Charleston. Is there any better way to wait on your table to become available?

Stars Restaurant Rooftop & Grill Room provides the only 360 degree views in the city, but though you may come for the views and drinks, stay for the food. When you first walk into the swanky King Street restaurant you are greeted by an overlarge wine-tap bar (yes...wine tap....I said that, just go with it) and a beautiful dim dining room. In the rear of the room is the open kitchen featuring the famed custom built "Grates of Hell" grill for which the "Grill Room" moniker is derived. 


The Chef at Stars, Nathan Thurston, won The Girl and I over a few years ago during Taste of Charleston, when he was the Chef at the Ocean Room at the Sanctuary. Eschewing the pulled pork that seemed to be the required dish, he served up a pate melt sandwich (get it? Patty melt, pate melt) that, three years later, I still remember. So, when he announced his new restaurant, we were both very excited.


Wood-grilled mushroom bruschetta with seasonal greens, goat feta, and a truffle vinaigrette ($9.25) would probably not have been our first choice of an appetizer, but based on Chef's recommendation we went with it. Boy were we glad. If I had not already won The Girl to the glory of mushrooms, this dish would have done it. The glorious mushrooms with the salty cool feta and slight sharp acidity of the vinaigrette provides this dish perfect balance.


The Plancha seared jumbo lump crab cake with spring bean and pea salad, shaved radish, and ginger vinaigrette ($13.95) was a good-not-great dish. The crab cake itself was tasty and buttery but slightly underseasoned. The bean and pea salad underneath was amazing, and I would gladly eat another bowl of it. Together, the dish lacked cohesiveness, but that didn't stop us from cleaning the plate


This dish is where I fail as a food writer. The Girl and I both loved it. It involved a fish. And Brussels sprouts. Specials, always write them down #ProTip. 


The favorite of our apps was the most playful, Bacon tater tots ($7.50). Served with a black pepper-buttermilk dressing, these fun little balls of baconny nostalgia were crispy, hot, and what middle school tater tots become when the go to graduate school.


Let me tell you a secret about The Girl. In many ways her preferred diet is that of a middle class Southern man in the 1960s. Meat. Sexy red meat. And grits. She doesn't really need more than that. So the Grill Room Steak ($27.50) with angus shoulder tenderloin, black truffle grits, braised mushrooms, sugar snap peas, and baby arugula may be one of her dream dishes. This isn't an overly imaginative dish, but it doesn't need to be. This is classic comfort food done to fine-dining standards. Perfect sear on the steak, temperature dead on, well seasoned grits, and sexy mushrooms. 


Then we get to my dish....and some sweet sweet sticky food love. Black Garlic Baby Back Ribs ($25.50) with smashed & fried potato salad and a crisp vegetable slaw. The potato salad was a fun take on the classic side, but these ribs were the star. The bones just slide right out leaving beautifully glazed succulent meat. I wanted to pick these up and let the sauce dribble down my fingers but The Girl gave me that "Oh no you don't mister" look. Fork tender and beyond delicious!


There was a dessert menu, but we didn't make it that far. TOO many apps. Next time....oh next time.

You want to make your girl happy? After dinner head back upstairs for drinks on the roof, under the stars, and enjoy the cool breeze and stunning views.

The Scores:
Ambiance: 4/5
Service: 4/5
Food: 8.5/10
Value: 3.5/5

Overall: 20/25 A beautiful dining room, amazing rooftop bar and fantastic food make this a must-try restaurant. 
Stars Restaurant - Rooftop & Grill Room on Urbanspoon

07 August 2013

Technique: Makin' Bacon


Your bacon has a dark secret. No, I don't mean the additives that a lot of companies pump in or the fact that there is enough salt in there to turn the Great Lakes into another ocean. No, the secret is your bacon is a thief. That's right, you've been robbed blind. $7.99 for a package of Center Cut porky goodness with a certain famous first name? No. Thank. You. Bacon is so easy to make, and so cheap to do, why waste your money on mass-produced bacon of questionable quality. Once you make your first slab you will never go back.

I'm going to tell you how to do a savory cure, but you can also do sweeter breakfast cures. What you will need are:

3 Tablespoons Kosher Salt
1 teaspoon sodium nitrite (also called pink salt, but don't confuse with Himalayan pink salt)
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 tablespoon coarsely ground pepper
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
4 bay leaves, crumbled
2 teaspoons red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon coarsely ground juniper berries (optional)

3-5 pounds Pork Belly

You can get pork belly from most butchers, many grocery stores, and just about any Asian market. I prefer doing about 3 pounds at a time, but that's more of a space issue. If you can, go with ossabaw belly. This heritage breed has, in my humble opinion, the best bacon makin flavor.


Bacon is salt cured. In essence, you are "marinating" the belly in the salt cure. Combine all the ingredients and liberally coat the belly in a 2 gallon zip top bag. Remove as much air as possible and place in a container in the fridge. Every morning when you go to grab the milk for your coffee, flip it over. 7 days later guess what.....it is cured! You are one small step away from bacon.


Remove the bacon from the bag and rinse well, removing as much of the cure as possible, and pat dry.

At this point you have two options. Option one is to smoke it. If you want to go this route you want to  get the wood of your choice (Apple and Cherry are my favorites) and get the smoker to 200 degrees. You want the bacon to reach an internal temp of 150 degrees.

Option two is to roast the bacon. If you go this direction preheat your oven to 200 degrees, and roast till an internal temp of....you guessed it....150 degrees. This should take about two hours.



Once you have smoked/roasted your bacon, take a knife and run it along the bottom of the belly to remove the fat cap. DO NOT DISCARD! This will make an excellent stock, I promise you.

One your bacon has cooled you can wrap it up in cling wrap and keep in the fridge for two weeks (like it will last that long) or freeze for 3 months. Simply carve off 1/8 inch slices or 1/2 inch lardons and sauté until the fat is rendered. That is it. Now, do me a favor, and skip over the mass-produced factory bacon with the funny name.

06 August 2013

Tonight's Episode: The Girl and I Join a Club

Guess who is wearing the shorter skirt

On Sunday August 4th, The Girl and I were inducted into the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs. So what exactly is the Chaîne? Well, for that we need a short history lesson (thanks to the Chaîne website).
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"The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs, an international gastronomic society, founded in Paris in 1950, traces its origins back to 1248. At that time, the French King Louis IX (later canonized as Saint Louis) wishing to thank the trades which had contributed to the construction of Sainte Chapelle, ordered the establishment of several professional guilds, one of which was the "Oyeurs" or goose roasters. The vocation of this guild was to improve the technical knowledge of its members: apprentices, tradesmen and masters. Over the decades its activities and privileges were expanded."





"For more than four centuries the ‘Confrérie des Rôtisseur' cultivated and developed the culinary arts, meeting all the requirements of professionalism and quality demanded by the "Royal Table", until 1793 when the guild system was dissolved during the French Revolution. The Rôtisseurs were completely forgotten until 1950, when Dr. Auguste Bécart, the well-known journalists Jean Valby and Curnonsky (elected "Prince of the Gastronomes"), and chefs Louis Giraudon and Marcel Dorin revived the association and founded the "Confrérie de la Chaîne des Rôtisseurs"."

"I dub thee fan of great food"

"The Chaîne des Rôtisseurs today is a truly international gastronomic association, dedicated to honoring the preservation of the traditions and practices of the old French guild in a completely contemporary and international context."

"The principal goal of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs is to bring professional and non-professional, amateur members in over 80 member countries together to celebrate their passion for fine cuisines and wines and to aid and encourage the development of young chefs and sommeliers worldwide through its national and international competitions as well as provide international food support and aid to those in need."




So......The evening began with a short ceremony inducting us into the Chaîne and quickly moved to the important stuff, dinner. This black-tie event was held at one of our favorite Charleston restaurants, Tristan, and featured a true "Locavore" theme.


Way better than turkey jerky

Dinner began with a Chef's compliment of watermelon jerky & encapsulated juice. Jerky....made of dehydrated watermelon? Sign me up for this by the pound. This bright and surprisingly meaty dish gave a cool, sultry start to the meal.


Meat on Board sure beats Baby on Board

The first course, Finders Keeper, which was a composed salad of locally foraged ingredients (including figs and sea beans); Sea Island Culatello from Tristan's private collection, Holy Smoke Olive Oil Jam. This was The Girl's favorite course, and the luscious, delicate culatello melded with the jam and figs into a supremely composed dish.

What is a diner without pasta?

Second course, and my personal favorite, was a Tarvin Family shrimp tonarelli with oven dried Kurios Farm tomatoes and an ice filtered lobster and shrimp consommé that I was willing to do shots of. A stunningly elegant pasta dish that looks so simple on the surface, but in Chef Whiting's typical style,  quietly utilizes so many varied techniques that one is left stunned. 

This.....was not what I was expecting. Tristan does that to you.

Third course was perhaps the most playful dish, a Carolina Gold & sweet corn risotto. This was paired with a Manchester Farms Quail confit with a stunning gilded truffle popcorn and lime caviar. The bursts of sweet from the corn and acid from the "caviar" brought beautiful balance to the dish and played wonderfully with the quail.

Pollen and Honey and Pork oh my

The final savory dish was actually rather sweet. A locally pastured Ossabaw suckling pig that was crusted in bee and fennel pollen, with Wadamalaw onions and an almond milk polenta. I'm still trying to figure out how exactly this dish worked as well as it did. Pollen crust? Who knew?

Somebody undercooked ma egg

Pastry Chef Amanee Neirouz, in her typically restrained but technique heavy style, sent out this Hickory Hill buttermilk panna cotta with a peach sorbet and butter pecan crumble. The Girl loved how the sweetness was held in check and praises the crumble as truly excellent, providing a perfect textural counterpoint to the silky panna cotta.

She's Electric 

Through the meal we were lucky to enjoy the jazzy sounds of Tom Swift & His Electric Cohorts, who helped give this black-tie event a little swing.



The evening was a total success. At the end The Girl and I were proud to become inaugural members of the Bailliage de Charleston. We would like to extend our thanks to Tristan, the band, and Chambellan Provincial William A Hirsh and Officier Allyson Hirsh for welcoming us and making the evening so special.

Confreres:

Dame de la Chaîne Michelle Abell
Vice Echanson Anthony Barhart
Chevalier Joel Anderson Berly
Professionnel du Vin Donald DeLuca
Officier Sara Elizabeth DeLuca
Vice Chargee de Missions Heather DiFelice
Bailli Marcos Digliodo
Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Trish Digliodo
Chevalier David Lyle
Vice Charge de Presse Charles Powell
Vice Chancelier Argentier Emmy Smith
Chef Rôtisseur Nathan Whiting



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